polipo e ceci – octopus and chickpeas

Posted on October 22, 2017 by hungryenglishman — 3 Comments ↓

This recipe came to me in a flash of inspiration one Saturday morning, and although I have since discovered that the octopus-legume combination is appreciated elsewhere in Italy, I still feel some smug satisfaction for having “invented” the recipe before finding out that actually I hadn’t. I say “recipe” because that’s what it is, but only in the same way that “ham sandwich” is a recipe. Unlike a ham sandwich, it does involve cooking, albeit Continue Reading →

acciughe – anchovies

Posted on July 18, 2016 by hungryenglishman — Leave a reply

Anchovies: you either love ‘em or you hate ‘em, especially in their preserved form – salted or in oil, in which they are only for aficionados of hard-core fishiness. I love them, but I must admit, it took a few years to acquire the taste. They’re one of the first things you’re likely to come across in Messina, part of the traditional focaccia topping of tomatoes, tuma cheese and escarole. Their salty, primeval kick can Continue Reading →

alalunga fritta con salmoriglio alla menta – fried albacore with lemon and mint dressing

Posted on April 24, 2016 by hungryenglishman — Leave a reply

I have been accused by some – well, practically everybody who has had the dubious pleasure of food shopping in my company – of striking the fear of God into market traders. I have been told that they look on anxiously as I prod, sniff and scrutinise their produce, like the lead-up to one of those “The man from del Monte says ‘yes’” moments. Except of course that I don’t always say yes. And apparently Continue Reading →

pescespada al forno con limone – baked swordfish with lemon

Posted on August 3, 2015 by hungryenglishman — 4 Comments ↓

It was hot, unbearably so. The idea of slaving over a hot stove was unthinkable. I had some thick slices of swordfish and little else apart from the Sicilian essentials I always have lying around – lemons, tomatoes, capers and herbs. And so I did something that I really shouldn’t have: I invented something. This, of course, is when Sicilians’ hackles start to rise. There are certain things that can be done. Some foodstuffs, such Continue Reading →

zuppa di pesce – fish soup

Posted on July 5, 2015 by hungryenglishman — 1 Comment ↓

Last week’s ragù di tonno didn’t go down too well. I was even told off for applying the word “ragù” to fish. So this time something classic, that will hopefully keep the purists happy. What’s more, this dish for me is a benchmark. When I try a new fish restaurant, I will always try to order it, even if it’s not on the menu. Just as when I try a new bar, I ask the Continue Reading →

pasta al ragù di tonno – pasta with tuna ragù

Posted on June 28, 2015 by hungryenglishman — 2 Comments ↓

Yes, tuna again, and brace yourselves, because there’s more lined up. This is tuna season, so what do you expect? And as you’ve probably realised by now, I just can’t get enough of the stuff… Today’s recipe is from Trapani, where they sometimes also add peas, which strikes me as a rare Sicilian ingredient slip-up. I personally love peas, but they are at their best when in similarly green company: simply dressed with butter and Continue Reading →

spaghetti al nero di seppia – spaghetti with cuttlefish ink sauce

Posted on March 3, 2015 by hungryenglishman — 2 Comments ↓

There are foods that we inevitably associate with certain people. If anyone mentions pasta with ragù, for example, I always think of my son, George, who must be one of the world’s leading experts on the dish by now, considering his vast hands-on experience in the field. And lemon meringue pie always brings to mind my sister. I’m not even sure why, although it might just be because her lemon meringue pie is so damn Continue Reading →